Vintage Photos of Argentina

Some time ago I confessed my love of vintage photographs here in this post.  In my quest to uncover more vintage goodness, I decided to delve into The Commons on Flickr, a collection of publicly-held images submitted by museums and other cultural organizations.  Friends, I can happily report that I have struck the mother lode.

I found a fascinating series of images from Argentina that date to the 1920s, an overwhelming number of which come from the photo archives of Chicago's Field Museum Library.  I was also excited to note that many of the photographs were taken in and around Necochea and Quequén. 

Argentina is rich with fossils – a paleontologist's dream, really – and the Field Museum sent two small teams of scientists to undertake fossil-collecting expeditions that spanned several years and numerous provinces: The Captain Marshall Field Expedition for Vertebrate Paleontology (1922-1925), and The 2nd Captain Marshall Field Paleontological Expedition (1926).  It seems that the efforts of the second expedition were primarily focused on sites in Catamarca (northwestern Argentina) and the province of Buenos Aires, including towns such as Necochea, Quequén, and Monte Hermoso. 

Although the men were obviously here for scientific purposes, they also managed to capture some wonderful scenes from everyday life in Argentina at the turn of the 20th century.  Here are just a few of the many photos from Necochea and Quequén:

[Horse-drawn wagons carrying wheat to the port for shipment – Puerto Quequén – 1926]

[Swimming races – 1926]

[Elmer Riggs, expedition leader, standing by a large natural arch – coast of Necochea – 1926]

[Scene on Río Quequén Grande, near camp – present-day Paraje Las Cascadas – 1926] 

[At the site of the Megatherium excavation – bank of the Río Quequén Salado]

Click here to explore some of the 200+ vintage images from all over Argentina that are available on The Commons at Flickr.

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Lighthouses of Argentina & Uruguay

A few years ago I began developing an interest in lighthouses.  They have a certain charm and nostalgia about them that I find very appealing, and they make great subjects for photography (as if I needed another excuse to take pictures!).  So far I have logged visits to nine lighthouses, four of which are located in Argentina and Uruguay. 

There are lots of opportunities to visit lighthouses here in Argentina, as the country's extensive coastline is dotted with nearly 60 of them.  In fact, there's even one just a few minutes from my home – the Faro Quequén.  Neighboring Uruguay, which is roughly the size of Washington State, has its fair share of lighthouses as well.

Here are some photos and information about the lighthouses I've visited thus far below the equator.

Argentina
Faro Quequén - Quequén, Province of Buenos Aires
After climbing the 163 steps of the Faro Quequén's spiral staircase, you'll be treated to an aerial view of the port, the expansive beaches of Necochea and Quequén, and even the shipwrecked Pesuarsa II, one of the most photographed sights in the area (in addition to the lighthouse, of course). 

Faro Punta Mogotes - Mar del Plata, Province of Buenos Aires This colorful red-and-white-striped lighthouse located in the lively beach resort of Mar del Plata was prefabricated in France.  The pieces were then shipped to Argentina and assembled on-site.  At nighttime, Faro Punta Mogotes casts a beam of light that can be seen at a distance of up to 42 nautical miles.  Visitors must be content with just a peek from the outside, as the lighthouse is not currently open to the public. 

Faro Claromecó - Claromecó, Province of Buenos Aires  
Faro Claromecó is the second tallest lighthouse in all of Argentina.  The lighthouse is open to visitors, and the long climb to the top will reward you with splendid views of the Atlantic coast.  Another unique feature of this lighthouse is the enormous whale skeleton that has been preserved and put on display at the bottom of the lighthouse.

Uruguay
Faro de Colonia - Colonia del Sacramento
This 19th-century lighthouse is unique in that it was built adjacent to the ruins of the Convento de San Francisco, a Franciscan convent that dates from the late 1600s.  A climb to the upper gallery affords views of Colonia's historic quarter and the Río de la Plata, the expansive river that divides Argentina and Uruguay.

Come springtime, I'm hoping to add the Faro Recalada a Bahía Blanca in Monte Hermoso, Argentina to my list.  With 327 steps leading to the top, it's not only the tallest lighthouse in Argentina but in all of South America.

[Nautical chart courtesy of Servicio de Hidrografía Naval]

Additional information about the lighthouses of Argentina and Uruguay:

Official List of Lighthouses in Argentina [Spanish]
Lighthouses of Northern Argentina [English]
Lighthouses of Southern Argentina [English]
Interactive Map of Argentine Lighthouses [Spanish]
List of Lighthouses in Uruguay [English, Spanish & Portuguese]
Lighthouses of Uruguay [English]

If you're a lighthouse photo junkie, visit my complete lighthouse set on Flickr.

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Witches, Bonfires & Dancing at the Festividad de San Juan

With roots in the pagan celebration of the summer solstice, the Festividad de San Juan (Feast of St. John) celebrates the birth of St. John the Baptist while retaining a number of pre-Christian rituals. The Feast of St. John falls on June 24th, but it's not unusual for the festivities to take place on an alternate date sometime around the solstice. [1]

Midsummer festivals and celebrations in honor of St. John are not unique to one particular corner of the world; however, we'll focus on the traditions of Spain's Basque region (País Vasco), since those are the customs that have influenced Necochea's Festividad de San Juan.

In the heart of the País Vasco, on the eve of the Feast of Saint John (San Juan Sua), bonfires are lit to ward off evil spirits. Custom dictates that the young people must jump over the fire three times to purify themselves and bring good luck. It's also traditional to throw objects into the fire that represent things the person desires to change or leave in the past (e.g. a smoker may throw a pack of cigarettes in the fire if he wishes to quit). Sometimes these wishes are written on scraps of paper that are tossed into the fire. [2]

A tremendous wave of European immigration at the end of the 19th century/beginning of the 20th century brought a number of Basques to Argentina. The immigrants kept alive many of their traditions from the "old country," and so the Festividad de San Juan continues here in Necochea, which is home to a significant Basque community.

This year's Festividad de San Juan was held on June 20th in front of the Centro Vasco Euzko Extea (the Basque Cultural Center) in Necochea. In contrast to the celebrations in the northern hemisphere, the festivities here took place on the eve of the winter solstice. A giant papier–mâché witch was mounted above a bundle of sticks in preparation for a roaring bonfire. Merrymakers launched firecrackers and then set the towering witch ablaze as costumed dancers twirled about, illuminated by the fire. Following the burning of the witch, a huge dinner was served in the Centro Vasco (I know a good witch burning always makes me hungry).

[Lighting the bonfire]

[Witch + Fire = Bye Bye Evil Spirits]

[The Basque dancers]

Festividad de San Juan, Necochea, Argentina

Please click here if you are unable to view the video.

If you'd like to see more images from the Festividad de San Juan, I have a second video available and additional photos.

Here's hoping your summer/winter solstice (whichever the case may be) was free of evil spirits. I know mine was.

Sources:

[1] Wikipedia
[2] Euskalkultura.com [in Spanish]

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Recipe File: Argentine Locro

Locro is one of those dishes that inspires rivalries and stirs intense family pride.  It seems there are countless versions of this hearty Argentine stew from the northwestern provinces, and of course, any recipe handed down from the venerable abuela is considered a culinary masterpiece.  Period.  Discussions about family recipes often go something like this: 

"My grandmother's recipe for locro is the absolute best.  I've never tasted anything that even comes close."

"Bah!  Your grandmother's recipe isn't fit to grace the trashcan in my grandmother's kitchen."

You get the picture.

Faced with a dizzying array of recipes that had excellent lineage but invariably involved some objectionable ingredient like tripe (sorry, Grandma), I did the most sensible thing I could think of – I took the abuela out of the equation.  I eventually settled on a recipe by Dan Perlman, an American chef and food writer living in Buenos Aires. 

As Dan explains on his food blog SaltShaker, he developed this locro recipe after researching other recipes, talking with home cooks, and tinkering a bit in the kitchen.  Though the preparation is a bit labor-intensive, the result is a rich stew that's packed with flavor and very satisfying. 

While I followed the recipe directions to the letter, I did tinker a bit with the ingredients.  I increased the amount of butternut squash and yams, I substituted smoked pancetta (panceta ahumada) for slab bacon, and I used sliced scallions as a garnish in addition to the chili oil.  Oh yeah, and I threw in an extra chorizo for good luck. 

A big thank you to Dan for this recipe.  This locro would surely make any Argentine grandmother proud! 

Argentine Locro
Recipe by Dan Perlman
Serves 6

Ingredients

1 cup dried white corn [hominy]
2 ears of fresh yellow sweet corn, cut the kernels off the cobs
2 medium white onions, coarsely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, thinly sliced
2- ¼" thick slices of smoked slab bacon, cubed
1 chorizo or other slightly spicy sausage, sliced
2- 1" thick pieces of osso buco [beef shanks], or similar cut
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon sweet paprika
½ teaspoon of ground black pepper
2 bay leaves
1 cup of butternut squash, peeled and diced small
1 cup of yams, peeled and diced small
1 large baking potato, peeled and diced small
2 plum tomatoes, cut in small wedges
salt to taste
chili oil

Directions

Soak the dried white corn in 2 cups of water overnight (at least 12 hours). In a large stewpot put the onions, garlic, bacon, sausage, and osso buco. Cook over medium heat until the onions are translucent. Add the fresh corn kernels, the paprika, cumin, bay leaves, a little salt, and the pepper. Continue to cook, stirring regularly, for roughly ten minutes. Add the soaked white corn kernels, water and all (may as well add in the extra corn flavor). Add hot water to pot to about 2" above the level of the ingredients. Add the remaining vegetables, stir, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, stirring every 15-20 minutes, for at least two hours.

At this point, uncover the pot and remove the bay leaves. Fish out the pieces of osso buco, discard the bones, and cut the meat into bite-sized pieces, then return it to the pot. Continue to stir over low heat – at this point you want to start using the back of a wide spoon or spatula to press the ingredients against the sides of the pan. The idea is to have the starchy vegetables and tomato disintegrate into the soup. The corn and meat will tend to resist being mashed, which is fine. As you continue to stir, mash, and cook, the soup should gradually become thicker and thicker. Continue until it’s a nice, rich, stew consistency. Add salt to taste.

Serve in bowls, and drizzle a little chili oil over the top if you like things spicy. I like to make my own chili oil by soaking a teaspoon of dried chili flakes in a tablespoon of olive oil for 2-3 hours (while everything else is cooking).

Other recipes from my blog:

Chipá
Dulce de Leche
Empanadas de Humita

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The Parks of Palermo: El Rosedal

During my recent jaunt to Buenos Aires, I had a chance to spend a delightful Sunday afternoon at El Rosedal (the Rose Garden), one of the beautiful parks in the barrio of Palermo. El Rosedal forms part of the 62-acre Parque Tres de Febrero, an oasis of green and relative calm amidst the hustle and bustle of the city.

Though winter is nearly upon us here in the southern hemisphere, there were still many lovely roses in bloom as well as a few butterflies flitting about. The holiday weekend preceding El Día de la Patria combined with unseasonably warm temperatures brought many families out to enjoy a bit of sunshine and fresh air.

As I sat beneath an expansive pergola enjoying the picnic lunch I'd brought with me, couples floated past in colorful paddleboats on the artificial lake known as the Lago de Palermo. Children attempted to scale a massive gomero (rubber tree), as their parents looked on from a few feet away, cameras poised to catch just the right moment. An old man who ambled by with a cane paused to cup a frilly musk rose in his hand and inhale the heady aroma.

The park's atmosphere was vibrant and alive, and I was glad I made time for a visit. After all, we should all stop and smell the roses once in a while.

Here are a few of my favorite shots from El Rosedal:

[A hungry butterfly snacking on some salvia nectar]

[Deep pink roses in full bloom]

[An autumn afternoon in Buenos Aires]

[One of the many benches where you can sit and take it all in]

[The beauty of the rose unfolds.]

If you'd like to see more photos of Buenos Aires' best-loved rose garden, click here to view my entire set on Flickr.

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Funny Argentine Brand Names

Please allow me to indulge in a bit of sophomoric humor.  Here are a few interesting products and/or stores that I have come across in Argentina.

[Bimbo – bread and other baked goods]

[McPussy – sponges and other cleaning products]

[Barfy – preformed hamburger patties]

[Mr. Cock, a children's clothing shop in Bariloche, Argentina]

Have you come across any funny or strange brand names in your travels?

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Recipe File: Empanadas de Humita

Empanadas are portable, versatile and just plain delicious.  Akin to a turnover, these stuffed pastries are another one of my favorite foods here in Argentina.  Though empanadas are not unique to Argentina – they can be found throughout Latin America – they are extremely popular here and are closely associated with the national cuisine.  Argentine empanadas tend to be baked rather than fried, and they usually feature savory fillings.  They make excellent finger food, and they frequently appear at parties, asados, etc.  It's easy to get a quick fix too – you can order empanadas for delivery from just about every take-out joint.

There are countless varieties of empanadas, which I find part of their appeal.  They're completely customizable to the ingredients that you have on hand, and it's fun to experiment with different and unexpected flavor combinations.  With that said, there are several tried-and-true empanada fillings, one of which is humita.

Empanadas de humita are typically filled with a mixture of corn and a basic white sauce.  The contrast in texture between the creamy sauce and the slightly crunchy corn is quite nice, making this type one of my favorite. 

Before we get to the recipe, a word about empanada dough.  The tremendous popularity of empanadas in Argentina ensures that every supermarket here carries pre-made tapas (disks of empanada dough).  In the U.S., it is possible to find La Salteña and Goya brand tapas at Latin grocery stores or other supermarkets with a broad selection of ethnic products. 

If you cannot find empanada dough in your area, you can make it from scratch (link provided below).  Another option is to buy ready-made pie crusts and cut smaller circles out of the dough using a large can or small bowl as a template.  Pie dough won't work quite as well as real empanada dough, but it'll do in a pinch.

This recipe is adapted from an Argentine website called Empanadas Criollas.  Please click here if you're interested in the original recipe in Spanish and/or the metric measurements.  Here's the recipe, tweaked, translated and converted to the English system for your cooking convenience:

Empanadas de Humita
Yields approximately 32 empanadas

Ingredients

For the dough:

Use pre-made tapas or follow this recipe to make your own from scratch

For the filling:

7 Tbsp. butter (just under 1 stick) butter
3 c. milk
1 c. all-purpose flour
2-15.25 oz. cans of whole kernel corn
1 large onion, chopped
2 c. grated cheese*
1/4 tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
Ají molido (substitute red pepper flakes) to taste
Salt and pepper to taste

*I used an Argentine cheese called queso cremoso (cut into chunks since it's too soft to grate), but grated mozzarella would work well too.

For assembly:

1 beaten egg yolk
A glass of water

Directions

For the white sauce:

Melt the butter over medium heat.  Slowly add the flour, stirring until the butter is completely incorporated and you achieve a thick paste.  Stir constantly to avoid lumps and to prevent the mixture from burning.  Gradually add the milk while continuing to stir (using a whisk will help to banish any pesky lumps).  Cook the sauce gently for a few minutes until it thickens up a bit, and then remove it from the heat.  Season with salt, pepper and the nutmeg.

To prepare the remaining ingredients for the filling:

Sauté the onions until lightly browned and add them to the white sauce.  Drain the corn and add it to the sauce as well.  Add the cheese and mix the filling until all of the ingredients are well-combined.  Season with ají molido or red pepper flake to taste.  Adjust other seasonings as needed. 

Assembling the empanadas:

Preheat the oven to 400ºF.  Place a tablespoonful of filling in the center of the empanada dough.  Resist the urge to overfill the empanadas, as they will be difficult to work with and will likely explode in the oven if you do so.  Dip your finger in the glass of water and lightly wet the edge of the dough.  Bring the edges of the dough together and press firmly.

There are several methods used to seal the empanadas (the repulgue).  The most simple way involves pressing the tines of a fork around the edge of the empanada, but if you're interested in trying your hand at a fancier repulgue, here's a video that demonstrates an attractive twisted edge like I did on the empanada in the middle [see photo below]. 

Place the empanadas on a lightly greased cookie sheet, and paint them with egg yolk.  Bake until golden brown, approximately 15 minutes.

Other recipes from my blog:

Chipá
Dulce de Leche

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Tango: Milonga Style

Tango. For many people, the mention of this iconic Argentine dance conjures up images of a man with slicked-back hair stalking across the dance floor, his partner poured into a slinky dress with a rose clenched between her teeth. Or perhaps that famous scene from "Scent of a Woman" comes to mind.

The tango danced in the milongas (tango dance halls) of Buenos Aires bears little resemblance to what you've seen in the movies, but I assure you that it's no less soulful and engaging to watch.

I was lucky to receive an invitation to attend a milonga from two tango-dancing Aussies that I met at my friend Deby's birthday party. Sharon, Rosa and I made our way to "El Beso" after the party, where I had a chance to see what Argentine tango is all about.

Upon arrival at El Beso, I was seated at a table in the back row, as the most desirable seats up front are reserved for regulars. Since there was no tango dancing in my future, a spot up against the wall was no big deal; however, for those looking for an invitation to the dance floor, it's much harder to attract another dancer's attention from the back of the room.

When I inquired about taking photos, the milonga organizer requested that I be very discreet and limit myself to shots of the crowd in general as opposed to specific couples. She explained that married men and women often come to the milongas alone to dance without the knowledge of their spouses, and she didn't want to be responsible for any divorces. In fact, every time she passed by my table and glanced at my camera, she would knit her brows and exclaim, "¡No quiero divorcios! ¡No quiero divorcios!"

Honestly, she didn't have much to worry about as the dim lighting and movement made picture-taking near impossible. I did manage a bit of video (I apologize for the less-than-stellar quality), but please don't scrutinize the faces of the dancers. ¡No quiero divorcios!

Tango Dancing at "El Beso," Buenos Aires, Argentina

Please click here if you can't see the video.

I had a great time listening to the music, watching the dancers, and learning a bit about the códigos of tango (tango etiquette in the milonga) from Rosa and Sharon.

If you'd like to read more about the intriguing world of tango in Buenos Aires, check out TangoSpam: La Vida con Deby or tangocherie.

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